TEXTILE FIBERS

Textile fiber is a smallest unite of the fabric manufacturing process. Natural & Synthetic fibers converted into yarn and then subsequently into fabric by weaving, knitting and nonwoven. Fiber is an initial stage of the fabric & fiber to fabric is a process of fabric manufacturing for end uses. 

Steps of fabric manufacturing 

Fiber Type (Staple/ Filament) - Yarn - Process of weaving/ knitting or nonwoven - Fabric dye/ print - Finished fabric based on end use. The fabric manufacturing process separate fibers based on length of fibers. 

• Staple Fibers -Fibers with finite length (relative short lengths)  
• Filament Fibers- Fibers with infinite length (long) 

Fiber Production 

The textile fibers arranged in such a way that create desired strength, appearance, texture and durability. Fibers come from variety of sources classified into four types. Plant fibers, Animal fibers, Man-Made fabric & Synthetic fibers.

Textile Fiber classification 

Identification of Textile Fibers

• Visual Inspection
• Burning Test
• Microscopic Appearance
• Solubility Test 

Visual Inspection - Inspect the outer factors of fibers by visualization. Determined the shape, color, texture, length. A fiber should have sufficient length & diameter to spin the yarn. Color of natural fibers is generally off white, brown, grey and yellow depending upon climatic conditions, soil and environmental factors. 

Burning Test - Burning test is plays a significant role in fiber identification. Fibers are identified by its odor and appearance of the flam, ash and smoke. 

Cotton burns very slow flame and leave a soft, grey ash with a burnt paper odor.

Synthetic fiber polyester burns with a yellow, flickering flame and leave hard black beads and give sweet chemical odor.

Microscopic Appearance - Further identification of fiber surface by microscope. Fibers surfaces are difference each other's. Characteristics can be identified from this inspection.

Solubility Test - The way of fiber identification is a chemical reaction with fiber. According to fiber type vary of reactions with chemicals.   

• Cotton – 75% Sulphuric Acid
• Wool&Silk – 5% Sodium Hydrochlorite,5% NaOH at boil
• Viscose – 60% Sulphuric Acid
• Acetate – Glacial Acetic acid
• Triacetate – Acetone
• Nylon – Hydrochloric acid or formic
• Polyester – Meta cresol or Chloro Phenol
• Acrylic – Di-Methyl Foramide

Properties of Textile Fibers

Tenacity -The strength of textile fiber is referred to as their tenacity. It is determined by measuring the force required to rupture or break the fiber. Sufficient tenacity is required to withstand the mechanical and chemical processing as well as make textile products which are durable.

Fineness - Fiber fineness governs the end use application of fiber. Cloths made from fine fibers or filaments have a softer smother handle. Low resistance to abrasion in fabrics as fine fibers can be easily damaged.

Moisture Absorption - The ability of a fiber to absorb moisture is referred in moisture regain or moisture content. The quantity of moisture picked up varies with the relative humidity and temperature of the atmosphere. The standard values are relative humidity of 65% and Temperature of 20C.

• Moisture Content % = (Amount of moisture / Total Weight) X 100%
• Moisture Regain % = (Amount of moisture / Dry Weight) X 100% 

Abrasion Resistance - The life of a fabric is dependent on its resistance to abrasion. Nylon has an outstanding resistance to abrasion. Abrasion resistance is decided by its fiber composition, yarn and fabric construction.

Crease Recovery - To remain a good appearance of a fabric, they must have good crease recovery from unwanted crease occur in fabric usage and laundering.

Elongation & Elastic Recovery - The amount of extension or stretch that a fiber accepts is referred to as elongation. Elastic recovery indicates the ability of fibers to return to their original length after being stretched. 

Luster - Luster is amount of light reflected from the surface of the fiber. Fine fibers provide a greater number of reflecting surfaces. Hence good luster. Uniform diameter has a greater luster. The shape of the cross section affects the degree of luster. 

Flexibility -Fibers should be flexible or pliable in order to be made into yarns and thereafter into fabric that permit freedom of movement. Certain end uses require greater flexibility. 

Uniformity - Uniformity of fibers towards its length, ensure production of even yarns which can then form fabrics of uniform appearance and consistent performance.

Chemical Properties - Resistance of textile fibers to acid / alkali, bleaching agents or organic solvents are considered as chemical behavior of textile fibers. Behavior of fibers towards chemicals is important in areas such as Textile processing, Fiber identification, Laundering, Bleaching & dry cleaning. 

Textile processing - Scouring, bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing have to be carefully controlled in order to avoid damage to the fiber.

Fiber Identification - The known sensitivity of different fibers to various concentrations of chemicals are used.

Cellulosic materials are less sensitive to alkaline than protein fibers.

End Uses of Fibers 

Textile fibers have suitable properties, characteristics for fabric manufacturing process. Also, these properties indicate the qualities of fabric that manufactured. Fabric manufactured based of various kind of end uses. For example, 

• Cotton - Soft, breathable, and washable. It’s a favorite for many items, including clothing and household goods, and is also one of the best sewing materials for beginners.
• Linen- Expensive, stronger and likely to last longer than Cotton. It’s also more environmentally sustainable to produce. Linen is often used to make summer clothing and bedsheets.
• Wool - Wool is usually warm, strong, breathable, and moisture-wicking, though it can be a bit itchy. You may have also heard of broadcloth. 
• Silk - One of the most luxurious high-fashion fabrics, silk is made from fibers produced by the silkworm. It’s relatively expensive as a sewing material, so it’s often used to make high-end dresses, skirts, and blouses. It’s smooth, shiny, fine, and quite delicate.
• Satin - Satin is often used to make glamorous items like evening gowns, bridal wear, and lingerie or sleepwear.
• Polyester - It’s commonly used to make clothes and home furnishings as its strong and stain-resistant, won’t shrink or stretch easily, and is easy to care for. It’s not very breathable alone but is often mixed with cotton for clothing.