TEXTILE YARN 

A textile yarn is an assembly of substantial length and relatively small cross section (fine) of fibers & filaments with or without twist. 

Textile yarn is created a process called spinning. which can be completed by machine or by hand using natural or synthetic fibers and filaments. When fibers and filaments are wound together, create a type of yarn called thread.

We can classified yarn based on process, yarn construction, spinning techniques and yarn count.

Yarn Classification by processing 

Types Of Yarns

Yarns are used for different applications in the manufacturing of apparels, household and industrial fabrics.  Therefore, yarns can be classified into different types according to the process, materials and end use. 

• Carded and Combed Yarn
• Blended Yarn
• Cone and Hank Yarn 
• Hosiery, Weft, Warp and High Twist yarn
• Warp and Weft Yarn
• High Twist Yarn

Carded and Combed Yarn

Carded and Combed yarn are produced in cotton and wool processing only. The yarns which are produced without any removal of short fibers called as carded yarns. The yarns which are produced after the removal of short fibers called as combed yarns.

In Cotton Processing 

Carded Yarn- Carded Cotton Yarn

Combed Yarn- Combed Cotton Yarn

In Wool Processing

Carded Yarn- Woolen Yarn (woolen yarns are coarser and they are used in the manufacture of coarser and medium quality fabrics.) 

Combed Yarn- Worsted Yarn (worsted yarns are used for making fine and super fine quality dress material)

Blended Yarns (According to Material)

The word blend indicates that two different fibers are combined during the process of yarn manufacture. Cotton is blended with other fibers to produce certain desired effects such as feel, warmth, durability, drape and comfort. Cotton is blended with polyester, viscose for making fine quality dress materials.

• Poly/Cotton 
• Poly/Viscose
• Poly/Wool

Cone and Hank Yarn (According to construction of the package)

Yarns is delivered to market in two forms. Handloom process needs yarn in the form of hank. Hank means 840yards. Yarn is wound using a reeling machine. Power loom process/ knitting industry needs yarn in the form of cones

Hosiery Yarn

Knitting yarns are hosiery yarns having a very high uniformity to achieve better performance in twisting process. Combed hosiery yarns are widely used for fine quality fabrics. Knitting yarns are produced with lower twist to achieve high degree of softness and to avoid snarling. Knitting yarn quality has influence on the efficacy of knitting process of the quality of fabric.

Warp and weft Yarn

 A woven fabrics need two types of yarn for interlacing called warp and weft yarn. Warp yarns are used for length direction in a fabric and weft yarns are used for cross direction of the fabric. Warp yarn is subjected to more tension during the process of weaving. Therefore, warp yarn has more twist, stronger than weft yarn. 

High Twist Yarn

High twist yarns are used for making special quality fabrics. And heat set by steaming before it is taken up for further processing. For example, stretch fabrics, voile fabrics

• Cotton High Twist
• P/C High Twist 

YARN SPINNING METHODS

Many spinning systems are used commercially to produce spun yarns with a wide range of values of characteristics. 

• Rotor Spinning
• Air-Jet Spinning
• Friction Spinning
• Vortex Spinning
• Electronic Spinning
• Core Spinning
• Warp Spinning
• Twist less Spinning
• Disk Spinning

Ring spinning has the greatest diversity and highest quality levels. Ring spinning has been able to succeed almost all other conventional spinning methods due to its flexibility, universal, applicability and yarn quality. Other new spinning system such as rotor spinning, Air- Jet spinning and friction spinning suffer inherent limitations of yarn count and twist levels which make them suitable for only narrow ranges. 

Quality parameters of yarn

Yarn Count - linear density of a yarn. The count of yarn can be represented in two system 

• Direct Method (Mass per unit area) - Measuring the weight of a unit length of yarn

                    Tex (T), Denier (D) 

• Indirect Method (Length per unit mass) - Measuring the length of a unite weight of yarn

                       Metric Number (Nm), English Number (Ne)

Tex (T) - Grams per 1000m

Denier (D) - Grams per 9000m

Metrics Number (Nm) - Length in meters for 1g of mass

English Number (Ne) - Number of 840 yards per one English pound of mass

Tex = Denier / 9

Tex = 590.5 / Ne

Ne = Nm X 0.59

Yarn Strength - The force requited to break a yarn. There are two ways of obtaining the yarn strength.

• Single Yarn Strength -In processing like winding, wraping or weaving the yarn is generally used in the form of individual yarn.
• Lea Strength - Lea strength test gives the breaking force of a lea (120yds). 

Yarn Evenness - The uniformity of a yarn with respect to its linear density is known as evenness. It affects the appearance of the fabric. There are 3 imperfections in yarn .

• Thin Places 
• Thick places 
• Neps  

Yarn Twist - Twist is the measure of the spiral turns given to a yarn in order to hold the constituent fiber or threads together. Twist is generally expressed as the number of twists per unit length. A change in the level of twist also changes many yarn properties, such as strength and softness. There are 2 types of twists used for yarn manufacturing. 

• S - Twist (use for fabric production)
• Z - Twist (use for sewing)

Yarn Hairiness - The occurrence of short fibers protruding from the yarn surface is known as hairiness. All spun yarns are hairy to some extent. Hairiness is difficult for weaving process.